Catching My First Wave

by TRINITY

I pulled my wetsuit on. As soon as I did, I felt the heat trap inside. It was a warm morning here in Todos Santos, BCS. I grabbed my surfboard and lifted it over my head. I turned around and saw my dad following me with his surfboard. It made me feel a little bit more brave to know that he was there just in case a big wave tried to eat me. It felt like when I was five years old and I wanted to walk downtown all by myself but I was much too little, so Dad told me that he would walk five feet behind me and it would be like he wasn’t even there.

As I walked, I got closer to the tide. It pulled in then rushed back out. My feet skimmed the water as I waded out to sea. Once I was up to my waist I could feel the water creeping into my wetsuit. I glanced back to check if my dad was still coming. He was right behind me like always. 

He met my gaze and said, “Ready?” 

“Yup!” I said…even though I wasn’t. But if I waited til I felt ready, I’d be waiting my whole life. 

I hopped on my board and started paddling, even though I could still walk if I wanted to because it was only about three feet deep.The first wave formed ahead and we skipped it. I pulled myself into a plank and prepared for the drop. I opened my eyes. The salt water dripped around them. Once the wave died down, I started paddling again. Another wave came and I decided to take it. Dad was messing with the leash on his board so I yelled, “Dad, I’m gonna go.” My impulsive confidence took him by surprise but I had a good feeling that I could do this on my own. 

I hoped he was watching as I paddled until the white waters swept me away. I pulled into a plank again and brought my right foot forward, then my left. Once I stood I bent my knees a little, and it happened. I was surfing, all by myself. I felt the smile on my face growing. Like a wildflower, I bloomed independently in the wind. 

Even though the air was brisk, there was still a warm feeling inside of me. A feeling of pride and excitement. I looked back at my dad and saw shock, excitement and pride on his face all at the same time. I don't remember my first steps or my first solid food but I will always remember my first wave.

Cerritos Beach, Baja | Summer 2022